Reference Numbers Explained

How to Identify Models by Brand

Every luxury watch is identified by a reference number assigned by the manufacturer. Reference numbers define the model family, case material, size, movement, bezel, and configuration. Understanding how these references work allows buyers and collectors to accurately identify a watch and avoid confusion between similar-looking models.

This guide explains how reference numbers are structured for each major brand.

Rolex Reference Numbers Explained

Rolex reference numbers identify the model line and configuration. Over time, Rolex has evolved its system, but the structure remains consistent.

Older Rolex References (4–5 digits)

Used primarily from the 1950s through the 1980s.

Examples:

• 5513 – Submariner

• 1675 – GMT-Master

• 6263 – Daytona

These references identify:

• Model family

• Basic case type

• Movement generation

Material details were often implied rather than encoded.

Modern Rolex References (6 digits)

Introduced in the late 1980s and still used today.

Example: 116610LN

Breakdown:

• 11 / 12 → Generation

• 66 → Model family (Submariner Date)

• 1 → Case material

• LN → Bezel type (Lunette Noir)

Common Rolex Material Codes

• 0 – Stainless steel

• 1 – Yellow gold / steel

• 3 – Yellow gold

• 4 – White gold

• 5 – Everose gold

• 6 – Platinum

The reference number defines exact configuration, not production year.

Patek Philippe Reference Numbers Explained

Patek Philippe reference numbers identify case design, complication, and material, typically formatted as XXXX/XXX.

Example: 5711/1A

Breakdown:

• 5711 → Model design (Nautilus)

• /1 → Bracelet configuration

• A → Stainless steel

Common Patek Material Codes

• A – Steel

• G – White gold

• J – Yellow gold

• R – Rose gold

• P – Platinum

Patek references are model-defining. Even small design changes result in new references.

Audemars Piguet Reference Numbers Explained

Audemars Piguet reference numbers are alphanumeric and highly specific, especially for Royal Oak models.

Example: 15510ST.OO.1320ST.01

Breakdown:

• 15510 → Model generation

• ST → Stainless steel

• OO → Case construction

• 1320ST → Bracelet type

• 01 → Dial variation

Even minor differences (dial color, bracelet, complication) result in new references. AP references are essential for accurate identification.

Cartier Reference Numbers Explained

Cartier reference numbers identify model, size, movement type, and material.

Example: WSSA0037

Breakdown:

• WS → Stainless steel

• SA → Automatic movement

• 0037 → Model variant

Cartier uses different formats depending on era, but reference numbers are the most reliable way to distinguish sizes and configurations within the same design (Tank, Santos, Ballon Bleu).

Richard Mille Reference Numbers Explained

Richard Mille references follow a clear RM-based structure.

Example: RM 011

Breakdown:

• RM → Richard Mille

• 011 → Model architecture

Additional letters or suffixes may indicate:

• Material variations

• Special editions

• Regional releases

Because Richard Mille production is extremely limited, reference numbers are critical identifiers and must be matched with case, movement, and documentation.

Why Reference Numbers Matter

Reference numbers allow buyers to:

• Confirm the exact model and configuration

• Avoid mismatched components

• Compare pricing accurately

• Understand materials and complications

DNA Watches strongly encourages buyers to confirm reference numbers before purchase and ask questions if clarification is needed.

Important Disclaimer

Reference numbers identify model configurations but do not alone confirm authenticity, originality, or condition. Professional evaluation considers the entire watch.

For questions about a specific reference, please contact us prior to purchase.

Email: sales@dnawatchesnyc.com